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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.